A HISTORICAL OVERVIEW

A Historical Overview

Georgian

The Georgian period, spanning from 1714 to 1837, is named after the successive English Kings Georges I through IV. Original Georgian pieces are rare and highly collectible, but due to their age and delicacy, they are not recommended for everyday wear. Most available Georgian jewelry dates to the early 1800s and features highly dimensional repousse designs. Common motifs include floral and scroll patterns, with gemstones like garnets, semi-precious colored stones, and early faceted rose-cut and table-cut diamonds. Foil-back settings enhance their brilliance, especially under candlelight. Typically, Georgian jewelry is made of 18 karat gold or higher, giving it a rich luster.

Georgian Memorial Ring with Hair and Cold Wire Accents, c.1820.

Victorian

The Victorian Period (1837-1901), named after Queen Victoria, is characterized by sentimentality and symbolism. Victorian jewelry showcases a wide variety of motifs such as flowers, birds, snakes, and hearts. It incorporates numerous gemstones ranging from humble agate and turquoise to lavish diamond-studded pieces. Most Victorian jewelry is composed of yellow gold, often topped with silver to accentuate the diamonds.

Victorian Saltwater Locket Austro Hungarian Garnet Natural Gemstone Turquoise Pearl Antique, c.1800.

Art Nouveau

The Art Nouveau period (approximately 1895-1915) is known for its distinctive and whimsical designs. Jewels often feature fantastical female forms like dancers and nymphs, combined with nature-inspired motifs such as flowers and dragonflies. In this era, the jeweler's artistry took precedence over prominent gemstones; diamonds were used modestly as accents. Shimmering colors were achieved through fired enamels and techniques like plique à jour, which evoke stained glass.

Antique Gold Griffin Dragon Ring Dates to The Art Nouveau Period, c.1910.

Edwardian

Named after King Edward's brief reign (1901-1910), Edwardian jewelry is delicate, romantic, and intricately detailed. Typically crafted from platinum or platinum over gold, these pieces feature light and airy designs with intricate piercing. Diamond-studded bows and garlands often embellish central diamonds, pastel-colored gemstones, and natural pearls. This period in France is referred to as La Belle Époque (The Beautiful Era) for its exquisite artistry.

Diamond and Emerald Carved Shell Cameo Brooch Pendant, c.1910.

Art Deco

The Art Deco era emerged in the roaring twenties and extended through the 1930s. This period marked a shift towards modernity with bold geometric designs that mirrored iconic architecture like the Empire State Building. Platinum was favored for showcasing fine white diamonds, often accented with calibre sapphires or black onyx. Art Deco jewelry features vibrant gemstone rings, elongated dinner rings, opulent bracelets, double clip brooches, and sautoir-length necklaces.

Art Deco Natural Ruby and Dimond Ring, c.1930.

Retro

The Retro jewelry period is both distinctive and relatively short-lived, primarily during the 1940s. With platinum allocated for wartime needs, jewelers turned to rose and rosy-yellow gold. Retro designs evoke the glamour of Golden Age Hollywood icons like Joan Crawford and Greta Garbo. These pieces are characterized by bold and dramatic styles that leave a lasting impression, eschewing subtlety for striking visual impact.

Mid-Century

Mid-Century jewelry captures the essence of the Fabulous Fifties and early Sixties, featuring icons like Mamie Eisenhower, Elizabeth Taylor, and Marilyn Monroe. This era saw a resurgence of platinum and diamonds, contrasting sharply with the prewar Art Deco style. Designs often embraced abstract, free-form, and floral motifs adorned with overlapping and pave diamonds. Brooches and cocktail rings were abundant, showcasing more dazzle than subtlety, yet delivering striking visual impact.

Cartier Ruby Emerald Diamond Bird Brooch, c.1950.

The Sixties

The mid-to-late Sixties brought to mind counterculture movements and Rock 'n' Roll, but in the realm of artistic jewelry, it was the late mid-century modern, pop-art, mod, and hippie influences that stood out. Unique pieces of wearable art emerged, often lacking fine or large gemstones. Asymmetrical and geometric designs drew inspiration from Mondrian, featuring vibrant inlays of turquoise, lapis, malachite, tiger-eye, and onyx, primarily set in yellow gold.